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How can you confirm the up-map took? I had a monster that said racing upon startup but it doesn't look like the Xdiavel has this when you start the bike.
 

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I have still not fitted mine, so dont know what shows on screen, on pg 10-11, it mentions a cap (R) to go on end of wire to removed servo, does this do anything or is it just for protection?
Will running it with out map uploaded do any harm?
 

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I have it on phew well almost, right pain needed to remove front header pipe to get old off. Now all on I cant get bolt on left side thats on little alloy hanger and uses the existing bolt and rubber dampner thing. I think the connection on front header is just so tight its not fully pushed in, thinking starting it to get hot may help ease it in.

Otherwise as per manual apart from there being more heat shields to remove etc as mentioned in this thread!
 

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Any advice guys, i just cant it fully home to get last bolt in on left by side stand, it needs to be pushed more towards front of bike and up some. I have given if taps with rubber mallet etc.
Tomorrow will try starting it get it warm and may expand enough to slip on more I hope!
 

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Use short 10mm wrench, it's a pain and will be slow, that's how I got mine on/off
Yeah its on now, just can't physically, insert bolt left side just by side stand, where you use existing bolt and rubber isolator ring things.
Seems like i need to push both pipes in further, but can't will try starting to see if helps.
 

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It will fit it's just a pain in the ass, You might get another person to push exhaust whilest you tend to the bolt, Mine was on a lift so the angle was better for one hand pushing exhaust and othe hand starting the bolt. what a work out.
 

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Ssomeone mentioned exhaust servo connector cap, yes it is just to keep dirt out, once to map is downloaded, this feature is eliminated.
 

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Another thing I forgot to mention is coating inside of exhaust pipes and outside of stock header pipes with copper antiseize compound, this make install easier.
 

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Thanks for replies, I was installing on garage floor, as it is, its not on far enough to even get the bolt in yet, so makes me think summat is a miss or it just needs a good push home. I have tried with a rubber mallet now to when its been warm ridden it today seems fine with out the bolt!

Will tape up the connector out of harms way.

I used some copper grease to, the horizontal header join seemed almost to tight it just slipped on but with my bolts problem not enough I guess!

Would you be able to take a pic of yours? so i can see if mine is on same amount? looking at pics on net hard to tell, there also seems to be 2 different versions of the black heat shield!!
 

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Hi Lee
I spent a long time polishing my new exhaust pipes and the old headers. The termi horizontal was oval by nearly 2mm. With a lot of copaslip it slid on fairly easily so it was good for me. I paid only $1650 for my system but didnt get the upload map stick in the box. I run with a servo eliminator and a booster plug fitted which i feel will replicate the map which to be honest will only enrichen the fuel. The booster plug enrichens it by 6% anyway. I plan to remap the bike sometime in the future when they crack the Bosch ecu or fit a Rapid bike module as soon as they release it
 

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HI Dan, Yeah it was a pain to get it to slide on to both pipes initially once on, I could not get it on far enough to add bolt on left where its hangs from left swing arm mount it all seemed solid with out. Had dealer fettle it and now its all on properly. I imagine the servo maybe visible like after some.

Strange why sell with out map, i got mine for just over £1500 in end and fitting myself to saved a few hundred plus summer time dealer was like 6 wee wait!!
 

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Been on the same header nut for 2 days (seen from right side). Removed the heat shield for better access...now I can reach the nut but can't get the darn thing to turn without the socket slipping. Scared to death that I'm gonna round the nut off. Any ideas?
 

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Been on the same header nut for 2 days (seen from right side). Removed the heat shield for better access...now I can reach the nut but can't get the darn thing to turn without the socket slipping. Scared to death that I'm gonna round the nut off. Any ideas?
Are you talking about the battery side? I bought a 10mm swivel socket and that helped. The angle was too extreme to be able to fully ratchet the thing, so I would get a turn then take it off and reposition the socket. Also, undoing the tray that holds all those belly components in place was useful. (My socket fell into that area so I didn't have a choice. It worked out though and made it much easier)
 

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Hijodelantorcha,
I was able to access all 3 header bolts (2 from below with swivel + short extension and the left side bolt with a 10mm wrench). The left bolt is a slow 1/8 turn process. Bike was on a rear paddock stand.
It's easier if you drop the front end of the tray that hold the battery (lower section, it's in the instruction), you have to support it with a small stool so it doesn't drop all the way down, which could damage the radiator hose/pipe.
This is the crucial step that has to be patient, I'd take some time of and try it again the next day. Rushing it will definitely end it chaos.
 

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Hijodelantorcha,
I was able to access all 3 header bolts (2 from below with swivel + short extension and the left side bolt with a 10mm wrench). The left bolt is a slow 1/8 turn process. Bike was on a rear paddock stand.
It's easier if you drop the front end of the tray that hold the battery (lower section, it's in the instruction), you have to support it with a small stool so it doesn't drop all the way down, which could damage the radiator hose/pipe.
This is the crucial step that has to be patient, I'd take some time of and try it again the next day. Rushing it will definitely end it chaos.
Yes sir, nut seen from battery side. I loosened the entire battery sub tray/frame to remove the heat shield. I was hoping to avoid completely removing it. Seems like it will be inevitable. Thanks for the information.
 

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It may have been easier to leave front alone and pull off rear pipe by removing shock and mount, however then rear of bike has to be supported to releave tention on rear suspension, that is the way I did it and it seems a whole lot easier. once shock mount is out of way vertical exhaust is right there.
 

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I found I had to use 10mm ring spanner to could not get to all header bolts with a socket.
 
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