[dzbennett05]

Well I am glad to hear mine is not the only one that does it. (As in might be normal for these bikes) I rode 4 different xdiavels and never noticed it. That also could be do to the fact I didn't plop down 20k+ on it yet. You're spot on, that is what I was talking about though, the kinda leaning back or even forward and it kinda just catches. I have felt it coming out of the corner Which is just strange feeling. Just one of those things that bugs me every time I come to a stop. Thanks for the replies, I am not looking for any single response just curious. The dealership thinks I am bat shit crazy I am sure. What's funny is I pick the bike up today and it's sticking pretty bad and the tech now says it feels fine, when the first time he said it had some stiction in the front suspension.

 

[thiz11]

As far as anything I've read its concerned, the suspension on the s is the same as a non s other than some black coating. I have a basic xdiavel and mine doesn't stick. The only similar behaviour I have is when ix c one to a stop in traffic, occasionally, I sit back a bit and the front pops up a little. If you can actually feel the steps in travel of the front legs while riding, then that sounds just wrong. Sorry, probably not the kind of opinion you were looking for......

I wouldn't say I feel it while riding but when parking bike and turning bars the bike might pop up and when securing on trailer with canyon dancers, the compression and release is choppy. Of course, the suspension is much different than on my olg Gen 2 Diavel. Not really an issue but something to observe.

 

[jdkerner]

I don't have any special tools but would like to adjust the rear spring to soften the suspension. It's a bit jarring on anything uneven, and the upright position doesn't help. This is the only gripe I have about the bike--it's my favorite of all my rides.
Any suggestions? Should I just get the spanner wrench?

Thx

 

[dimsandwich]

Yes. If you're heavy and you back it off too far it may jar more if your weight takes up the initial travel. There's not much travel available, so don't discount tightening it up a little. You'd have to experiment till you get the compromise you like.

 

[jdkerner]

I weigh 160 with full gear. OK, thanks. Is the spanner wrench an Autozone item? A link to what I need would be great!

Thx

 

[dimsandwich]

Ok 160lbs not kilos I hope ;0)
That's about the same as me an I wound it in a bit for a little more preload and that suited me. Go measure the diameter of the adjuster (about 50 or 60mm I think). Then just google adjustable C spanner and get one that can go to that diameter. If you can get a pair of thin ones (about 5mm) that would be ideal so you can use one to hold the inner ring and the other to spin the outer ring. I only have one and its a bit fatter than the rings themselves so it's a bit of a fiddle as I have to use a screwdriver to hold the other ring still. But do-able and once you've found your sweet spot you won't use them again unless you have to adjust for pillion or big luggage

 

[jdkerner]

160lb!
So do you loosen the ring further away from the spring, then tighten the closer one to increase the preload, or is it the other way around?

 

[dimsandwich]

Measure the distance between the left face of the ring closest to the front of the bike and the end of the shock thread. Write that down so you know where you started. Now undo that lockring by turning it so it moves up the thread towards the front of the bike. Wind it about 5 mm away from the other ring (compression ring).
I suggest starting by winding the compression ring the opposite way to compress the spring. 1 full revolution to start (there are no clicks here). Now wind the lockring back down until it touches the compression ring nip it in a little tighter while holding the compression ring still. Don't go mad else you'll struggle to separate them again. Just a small movement till you feel the lockring resist moving.
Now measure the distance in mm between the lockring and the end of the thread again. The distance will have increased a bit. Now go for a ride, See how it feels. If it's no good, do it again and wind it in some more. Ride. Repeat. If it's still no good after 4 or 5 winds of compression. Try winding it all back off to the original setting. Then start testing it by winding the compression ring out 1 full turn at a time. Keep messing Until you find the setting you like best. My lockring sits 8mm from the end of the thread and I shift it 2mm in if I'm carrying a pillion on a long journey. If I'm too lazy, I just carry the pillion and put up with the front being a bit vague. Not gonna get started on the front forks as they're probably fine.

 

[jdkerner]

Thanks! I'll give it a go.

 

[dimsandwich]

I've been playing with the front adjustments as I get jolted whenever I come across uneven pavement between concrete and tar, like bridges. I really feel it in my hands.

@thiz11 I was looking at your adjustments and you mentioned front preload. How is that done? I only see the large rings for the back.

The manual suggests that stock adjustments are from full CW 0 (closed) position. From there it turns CCW 2 turns for both compression and rebound. So comparing this to thiz11 and dimsandwich, I'm actually lost if I have the same or not.

With that said, I have 1 turn on compression and 1 turn on rebound from CW 0. Oh boy is it harsh st-st-st-stutter as I ride. But, I felt that steering is a bit more precise as the wheel feels more controlled.

From the pictures it looks like 8 1/4 turns CW from a full open CCW position is more open than my setting. Doesn't that feel a bit bouncy? I think my setting was adjusted from the dealer and was not 2 CCW from default but when I tried it, it felt really bouncy and dives when braking.

I may just go back to default setting as I find 1 turn from CW 0 closed position to be harsh but I like how it feels in turns and leans. It doesnt help with the jolt I originally had set to soften.

CAADet mentions a "jolt" when the road surface changes. Well I wouldn't have used the word jolt but I could feel a kind of knocking through the handlebars when I went over small ridges in the road especially when braking. I also felt like the tyres were squared off (even though they didn't look that way). I spent some time monkeying about with adjustments but eventually got a professional to look at it and the head bearings were shot. (24000 miles). Fixed those and no more wierd knocking/jolting through the bars and suddenly back to cornering with confidence again. £60 well spent. Apparently this is common on Diavel, XDiavel and Multistradas because water gets down into the head bearing assembly and rots the bearings. My mechanic cheerfully showed me the bearings he took out. Gave them a shake and they chattered like tamborines. I never would have though that movement would have affected the whole feel of the bike but it did. So, the way to check your head bearings is to get the front wheel off the ground and grab the bottom of the forks. push and pull back and forth and if there's any movement consider getting your head bearings adjusted or replaced.

 

[ReidMcT]

£60 well spent.

You have found a great mechanic who works for almost nothing. I just can't imagine getting that diagnostic and repair work for so little in any first-world country.

 

[dimsandwich]

Yep, for sure. He's a friend of a friend. I'm a lucky boy;o)

 

[Johnny Mo]

 

[Smiler]

Yeah I found this too. DM usually is bang on with suspension, he would usually look at tyre wear, sag, static sag, front and rear.

In this film he couldnt give a shite, his use of the tools is shocking, he deffo scratched the Ducati when the tool slipped, he doesnt even alter the front, or look at tyre wear. Slack as fuck.

All he does is soften the rear and sends the bloke on hus way, its no wonder he didnt come back, he probably felt ripped right off!

 

[Smiler]

Yes. If you're heavy and you back it off too far it may jar more if your weight takes up the initial travel. There's not much travel available, so don't discount tightening it up a little. You'd have to experiment till you get the compromise you like.

A well old post I know....

What rider sag are we aiming for on the rear?

 

[dimsandwich]

I'm not a suspension expert but in my experience of faffing about with settings, start aiming for about 20mm of sag when you're sat on it. And then ride it. If it's too Jarry on small ridges then maybe a little more sag. If it's ok on the flat but gets jarry/choppy on a bumpy road then go for a little less. If you just can't get it right adjusting only preload then start messing with rebound damping. Too much damping will mean the suspension won't re-extend fast enough and eventually gets too compressed and stiff. Too little and it'll bounce back up like Tigger and do a little jig when it gets to the top of it's travel. Once you've found your setting, then make sure the front and rear rebound at about the same rate. You'll need a Friend to help with this. You want compress suspension at both front and rear and see them both bounce back up at the same rate, not see the rear come back up faster than the front or vice versa. And that's a matter of tweaking and patience.

To put it another way, more preload will make the suspension want to extent faster after being compressed. If it extends too fast it'll bounce (do a little jig) at the top of travel because it overpowered the rebound damping, try increasing that. That will control the rate of rebound. But don't go too far else the suspension won't get chance to extend again between bumps eventually getting over compressed and it'll feel like a hardtail over a series of close together bumps.

One way or another, these bike aren't supposed to be sloppy soft cruisers so don't expect to be wafting along but you also don't have to expect to get off the thing 2 inches shorter than when you got on. Not sure if that helps any. Hope it does.

 

[Smiler]

Im am bumped out of the seat at times, especially if I am pressing on.

Ive come from sport bikes where info for sag and spring rates is huge.

 

[dimsandwich]

Yep agree. The only time I get bumped out of the seat is over a big assed tree root hump on a particular piece of road where I'm often pressing on. No matter what I do it still soaks up all the travel but (counterintuitively) upping the preload makes it less bad but that means there's a compromise elsewhere more of the time. So I choose to call it "character" and the way the bike looks and how it behaves most everywhere else means I forgive it ). Maybe a company like Hagon might have an aftermarket solution but I'm too tight for that )

 

[Smiler]

Ive found the rebound adjustment to be really sensitive. I have 5mm of thread showing (110kg inc gear on) and I have the rebound set to 'just' hold back the spring.

An adjustment of just 1 quarter turn is the difference between way off and just right

 

[Upinsmoke]

I'm going to be taking my bike to Washington Cycle Center next week. I'll post what the experience is like afterwards. RIght now the bike is bouncing me out of the seat on any kind of road imperfection. Makes straight line highway riding interesting and not to mention what curves are like.