I didn't see a topic for this like in the old Diavel sections.
Anyone have any details or suggestions for tuning the suspension on the X? Mine is sooooo stiff.
I have around 700 miles on mine now and the suspension seems to be settling a little and absorbing more of the harsh stuff that when new. Planning a 6hr ride this weekend and will post if I ended making any changes.
I didn't see a topic for this like in the old Diavel sections.
Anyone have any details or suggestions for tuning the suspension on the X? Mine is sooooo stiff.
I had the suspension of my XDiavel adjusted within a few days of getting the bike. I'm 190lbs without gear and the back of the bike would bottom out over bumps. And rebound damping was so weak that it would spring back upwards almost sending my butt of the seat. So yes, the factory settings are absolutely horrible for someone my size. I had my suspension re-tuned at Catalyst Reaction Tuning. They did the suspension on my other Diavel and 899 and the results are always spectacular. I know that they raised the rear up a bit and increase rebound damping. Up front they adjusted everything but I wasn't paying attention. The result is that now the bike rides magnificently. They were pretty impressed with the stock suspension components in how they can be dialed in for just about anyone (under 250lbs) without even needing to swap springs. The Diavel, on the other hand, required a stiffer rear spring and thinner oil in the front forks to get it set up nicely for me.
Updated again after checking all suspension settings and manual:
-Moved pegs back to first spot- perfect for my legs at 5'9" and 210lbs frame
-Increased rear preload almost three full turns from where it was delivered (almost standard I believe). It was 45/64 (.70") and I moved to 54/64 (.84"): no more bottoming out
-Rear rebound was standard at 1.5 turns from CW: no change
-Increased front preload to five full turns CW from full CCW. Default was 4+ turns and 136 clicks from full CCW. I ended up with 200 clicks from full CCW: still debating outcome
-Front rebound and compression were both at default 2 turns CCW from full CW: no change
Will continue to fine tune as I get a feel for how it rides and everything settles down. Wish me luck!!!
Ok, Thanks to Thiz11 for posting. I've been fiddling and went to see a suspension tuner who was used to setting up sports bikes for track days. So the geometry of this bike was a bit odd to him, setting it up using all the usual sag measurements and rebound/compression rate measurement stuff gave me a bike I hated, so we did some fiddling. In the end his settings were good but I was finding things a bit choppy at the front. He warned me it might be so with what he taught me I've been fine tuning for about 500 miles and I think I have it the way I want it now. That's my subjective view but it's based on the fact that I can now happily throw it over and hit the road with the pegs with confidence. Big bumps can be a bit hard on my butt/spine but I think that's just the way it is. I tried softening and stiffening rear preload/rebound to get rid of that but ended up with a bike that wanted to run wide and/or chattered ABS at the front too eagerly. So here goes;
This is how mine's set up (non S version).
I weigh 12.74 stone, 175.4 lbs or 79.72 kgs with leather and helmet.
I'm 5ft 6 inches tall.
I have standard bars and footpegs in the most rearward position.
Bike has done 1700 miles.
Front Preload and compression adjusters are on the left fork leg
Preload is the big black nut, make sure your spanner is a good fit and use a thin rag else the black finish can get damaged and that's annoying.
Compression is the little screw in the middle
Rear shock has no compression adjustment, the rebound adjuster is a little domed nut at the rear of the shock. Preload is done by winding the big castellated rings at the front of the shock (no pic but they're bloody obvious).
It had 16 1/4 turns of adjustment give or take a tiny amount.
When I say "a quarter turn", I mean that you turn the screw 90 degrees.
So from all wound out, I could count 16 1/4 turns + a tiny bit more until it was all in.
Rear preload has about 20mm of range. I set it so that the left face of the locknut is 8mm in from the left end of the thread (was 9mm).
The "locknut" as I call it is the one closest to the front of the bike (or leftmost as you look at it in the pic). While you have the locknut undone, spray a bit of acf50 or some other silicone lube between it and the nut that touches the spring. Don't be tempted to pinch the locknut up too tight against the one that touches the spring, there's no need and it's a pig to undo afterwards.
It has about 14 1/4 turns.
Just to be contrary, I wound it all the way in and started backing it out, eventually settling on 4 1/4 turns out (was at 5).
Thanks dimsandwich! Your post helped me understand a lot about the adjustments of the suspension. This is worthy of a sticky, wonder if this forum has it?
I've been playing with the front adjustments as I get jolted whenever I come across uneven pavement between concrete and tar, like bridges. I really feel it in my hands.
@thiz11 I was looking at your adjustments and you mentioned front preload. How is that done? I only see the large rings for the back.
The manual suggests that stock adjustments are from full CW 0 (closed) position. From there it turns CCW 2 turns for both compression and rebound. So comparing this to thiz11 and dimsandwich, I'm actually lost if I have the same or not.
With that said, I have 1 turn on compression and 1 turn on rebound from CW 0. Oh boy is it harsh st-st-st-stutter as I ride. But, I felt that steering is a bit more precise as the wheel feels more controlled.
From the pictures it looks like 8 1/4 turns CW from a full open CCW position is more open than my setting. Doesn't that feel a bit bouncy? I think my setting was adjusted from the dealer and was not 2 CCW from default but when I tried it, it felt really bouncy and dives when braking.
I may just go back to default setting as I find 1 turn from CW 0 closed position to be harsh but I like how it feels in turns and leans. It doesnt help with the jolt I originally had set to soften.
I've been playing with the front adjustments as I get jolted whenever I come across uneven pavement between concrete and tar, like bridges. I really feel it in my hands.
@thiz11 I was looking at your adjustments and you mentioned front preload. How is that done? I only see the large rings for the back.
The manual suggests that stock adjustments are from full CW 0 (closed) position. From there it turns CCW 2 turns for both compression and rebound. So comparing this to thiz11 and dimsandwich, I'm actually lost if I have the same or not.
With that said, I have 1 turn on compression and 1 turn on rebound from CW 0. Oh boy is it harsh st-st-st-stutter as I ride. But, I felt that steering is a bit more precise as the wheel feels more controlled.
From the pictures it looks like 8 1/4 turns CW from a full open CCW position is more open than my setting. Doesn't that feel a bit bouncy? I think my setting was adjusted from the dealer and was not 2 CCW from default but when I tried it, it felt really bouncy and dives when braking.
I may just go back to default setting as I find 1 turn from CW 0 closed position to be harsh but I like how it feels in turns and leans. It doesnt help with the jolt I originally had set to soften.
I reference full turns and dimsandwich references quarter turns.
I have everything standard except rear preload which I tightened spring to prevent harsh bottoming out.
The front preload is the large black nut on left fork top that has compression screw in it. Be careful not to damage paint when adjusting. My settings are below. We also have a separate post on this forum for everyone to list their final settings. It's called XDiavel Suspension Settings.
Front
Preload 5 turns CW from full CCW
Rebound 2 turns CCW from full CW
Compression 2 turns CCW from full CW
Rear
Preload 0.86" from base to spring
Rebound 1.5 turns CCW from full CW
Ok, Thanks to Thiz11 for posting. I've been fiddling and went to see a suspension tuner who was used to setting up sports bikes for track days. So the geometry of this bike was a bit odd to him, setting it up using all the usual sag measurements and rebound/compression rate measurement stuff gave me a bike I hated, so we did some fiddling. In the end his settings were good but I was finding things a bit choppy at the front. He warned me it might be so with what he taught me I've been fine tuning for about 500 miles and I think I have it the way I want it now. That's my subjective view but it's based on the fact that I can now happily throw it over and hit the road with the pegs with confidence. Big bumps can be a bit hard on my butt/spine but I think that's just the way it is. I tried softening and stiffening rear preload/rebound to get rid of that but ended up with a bike that wanted to run wide and/or chattered ABS at the front too eagerly. So here goes;
This is how mine's set up (non S version).
I weigh 12.74 stone, 175.4 lbs or 79.72 kgs with leather and helmet.
I'm 5ft 6 inches tall.
I have standard bars and footpegs in the most rearward position.
Bike has done 1700 miles.
Front Preload and compression adjusters are on the left fork leg
Preload is the big black nut, make sure your spanner is a good fit and use a thin rag else the black finish can get damaged and that's annoying.
Compression is the little screw in the middle
Front Rebound adjuster is on the right leg
Rear shock has no compression adjustment, the rebound adjuster is a little domed nut at the rear of the shock. Preload is done by winding the big castellated rings at the front of the shock (no pic but they're bloody obvious).
Front preload on mine seems to have 10 1/4 turns of adjustment.
Mine was set at 5 full turns clockwise from all the way out and that is fine for me.
When Compression is all wound out anticlockwise, it will look like this.
It had 16 1/4 turns of adjustment give or take a tiny amount.
When I say "a quarter turn", I mean that you turn the screw 90 degrees.
So from all wound out, I could count 16 1/4 turns + a tiny bit more until it was all in.
Then I set mine at 8 1/4 turns in (it was 10).
For rebound I wound it all the way in and I have 17 1/4 turns of adjustment.
Wound all in it looks like this.
Then I set it at 7 1/4 turns out (was at 8 as standard)
Rear preload has about 20mm of range. I set it so that the left face of the locknut is 8mm in from the left end of the thread (was 9mm).
The "locknut" as I call it is the one closest to the front of the bike (or leftmost as you look at it in the pic). While you have the locknut undone, spray a bit of acf50 or some other silicone lube between it and the nut that touches the spring. Don't be tempted to pinch the locknut up too tight against the one that touches the spring, there's no need and it's a pig to undo afterwards.
When the rear rebound is wound all out (anticlockwise), it looks like this.
It has about 14 1/4 turns.
Just to be contrary, I wound it all the way in and started backing it out, eventually settling on 4 1/4 turns out (was at 5).
Got my front suspension tuned in pretty good. Kept the preload the same. Two CCW from 0 for the compression and 1/2 turn CCW from 0 for the rebound. I like my rebounds to kept held so it doesn't jarr me going through bumps. So far its working well. Now for the rear and I'll have to get that tool thiz.
Ok, Thanks to Thiz11 for posting. I've been fiddling and went to see a suspension tuner who was used to setting up sports bikes for track days. So the geometry of this bike was a bit odd to him, setting it up using all the usual sag measurements and rebound/compression rate measurement stuff gave me a bike I hated, so we did some fiddling. In the end his settings were good but I was finding things a bit choppy at the front. He warned me it might be so with what he taught me I've been fine tuning for about 500 miles and I think I have it the way I want it now. That's my subjective view but it's based on the fact that I can now happily throw it over and hit the road with the pegs with confidence. Big bumps can be a bit hard on my butt/spine but I think that's just the way it is. I tried softening and stiffening rear preload/rebound to get rid of that but ended up with a bike that wanted to run wide and/or chattered ABS at the front too eagerly. So here goes;
This is how mine's set up (non S version).
I weigh 12.74 stone, 175.4 lbs or 79.72 kgs with leather and helmet.
I'm 5ft 6 inches tall.
I have standard bars and footpegs in the most rearward position.
Bike has done 1700 miles.
Front Preload and compression adjusters are on the left fork leg
Preload is the big black nut, make sure your spanner is a good fit and use a thin rag else the black finish can get damaged and that's annoying.
Compression is the little screw in the middle
Front Rebound adjuster is on the right leg
Rear shock has no compression adjustment, the rebound adjuster is a little domed nut at the rear of the shock. Preload is done by winding the big castellated rings at the front of the shock (no pic but they're bloody obvious).
Front preload on mine seems to have 10 1/4 turns of adjustment.
Mine was set at 5 full turns clockwise from all the way out and that is fine for me.
When Compression is all wound out anticlockwise, it will look like this.
It had 16 1/4 turns of adjustment give or take a tiny amount.
When I say "a quarter turn", I mean that you turn the screw 90 degrees.
So from all wound out, I could count 16 1/4 turns + a tiny bit more until it was all in.
Then I set mine at 8 1/4 turns in (it was 10).
For rebound I wound it all the way in and I have 17 1/4 turns of adjustment.
Wound all in it looks like this.
Then I set it at 7 1/4 turns out (was at 8 as standard)
Rear preload has about 20mm of range. I set it so that the left face of the locknut is 8mm in from the left end of the thread (was 9mm).
The "locknut" as I call it is the one closest to the front of the bike (or leftmost as you look at it in the pic). While you have the locknut undone, spray a bit of acf50 or some other silicone lube between it and the nut that touches the spring. Don't be tempted to pinch the locknut up too tight against the one that touches the spring, there's no need and it's a pig to undo afterwards.
When the rear rebound is wound all out (anticlockwise), it looks like this.
It has about 14 1/4 turns.
Just to be contrary, I wound it all the way in and started backing it out, eventually settling on 4 1/4 turns out (was at 5).
I had the suspension of my XDiavel adjusted within a few days of getting the bike. I'm 190lbs without gear and the back of the bike would bottom out over bumps. And rebound damping was so weak that it would spring back upwards almost sending my butt of the seat. So yes, the factory settings are absolutely horrible for someone my size. I had my suspension re-tuned at Catalyst Reaction Tuning. They did the suspension on my other Diavel and 899 and the results are always spectacular. I know that they raised the rear up a bit and increase rebound damping. Up front they adjusted everything but I wasn't paying attention. The result is that now the bike rides magnificently. They were pretty impressed with the stock suspension components in how they can be dialed in for just about anyone (under 250lbs) without even needing to swap springs. The Diavel, on the other hand, required a stiffer rear spring and thinner oil in the front forks to get it set up nicely for me.
I had the dealer setup my suspension for 260 pounds. I was worried about the spring, but the tech said the spring didn't need to be replaced and that there's still a little bit of room left for my future gains. I hope they weren't misleading me.
I have yet to ride the bike after their changes due to the weather, but I'll report back with how much adjustment was made and how it affected the ride.
So I took my xdiavel in for the front forks sticking. When I took in, the tech noted that there was some stiction in the fork. They rebuilt the forks, a total overhaul. It still feels like it's sticking, now they told me that is how it is and that the xdiavel s felt different because it has different suspension then the regular xdiavel. I personally think that is bs because I read a lot about these bikes before I bought the regular xdiavel. Does anyone else get the sticky fork? For example, when you're stiting on the bike and you compress the forks slowly it stops, kinda catches then gives. it's mostly when I am coming to a stop when I notice it, but there has been a couple times that it stuck while coming out of a corner(that was before the rebuild). It's a small thing but it's bugging that crap out of me. None of my other bikes ever did this.
So I took my xdiavel in for the front forks sticking. When I took in, the tech noted that there was some stiction in the fork. They rebuilt the forks, a total overhaul. It still feels like it's sticking, now they told me that is how it is and that the xdiavel s felt different because it has different suspension then the regular xdiavel. I personally think that is bs because I read a lot about these bikes before I bought the regular xdiavel. Does anyone else get the sticky fork? For example, when you're stiting on the bike and you compress the forks slowly it stops, kinda catches then gives. it's mostly when I am coming to a stop when I notice it, but there has been a couple times that it stuck while coming out of a corner(that was before the rebuild). It's a small thing but it's bugging that crap out of me. None of my other bikes ever did this.
As far as anything I've read its concerned, the suspension on the s is the same as a non s other than some black coating. I have a basic xdiavel and mine doesn't stick. The only similar behaviour I have is when ix c one to a stop in traffic, occasionally, I sit back a bit and the front pops up a little. If you can actually feel the steps in travel of the front legs while riding, then that sounds just wrong. Sorry, probably not the kind of opinion you were looking for......
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