Ducati Diavel Motorcycles Forum banner
21 - 31 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Hi, just in case anyone was following this. Almost certainly the cause was due to drainage after they changed my main harness first time round following an issue with the display turning off when turning left. they changed a number of parts - I don't recall all of them - but it had nothing to do with the tuneboyed ECU thats for sure. Did a 3000km trip and no problems at all (staying at a lovely 13.1V). Just one other thing - when they changed the parts they also replaced my shourai lithium battery with another recommend lithium brand (sorry can't remember which one) because apparently the shourai battery has caused unspecified problems for them in the past on other customers bikes. hopefully The End !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
They replaced it with an AZ lithium battery. Apparently the shourai lithium battery has caused 'issues with other electrical systems' on the ducati so they stopped dealing with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I've been having the same problems with my '11 diavel w/ 22k miles.

I've also had to fix the broken dashboard power wire (left turn=broken wire problem)

I ride nearly every day, year round and had no battery issues for 3 years. Now, in the last year I've gone through 3 batteries including a shorai lithium. My 3rd battery (1 month old) is now off the bike and charging. I used a multimeter between the bike and battery to check for a current draw. I pulled fuses one by one until the measured draw disappeared. Sadly, the 'dashboard display' fuse did the trick.

I've heard of faulty displays but I shudder at the anticipated repair cost...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
Throw a cheap little toggle between the fuse terminal and the display feed, only throw it when you get ready to ride. Trickle drain gone. As long as the ECU has current everything should be fine I would think. Or better yet install a disconnect for the whole system for long storage if you aren't removing the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I'm having battery issues too but I believe its about time for a replacement anyways. I have a 2012 Diavel carbon and just recently if I don't ride it for 2 days it seems really hard to start. As far as I can tell its the original battery. For you guys running a lithium battery is it worth it and which brand do you recommend?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Hi, just in case anyone was following this. Almost certainly the cause was due to drainage after they changed my main harness first time round following an issue with the display turning off when turning left. they changed a number of parts - I don't recall all of them - but it had nothing to do with the tuneboyed ECU thats for sure. Did a 3000km trip and no problems at all (staying at a lovely 13.1V). Just one other thing - when they changed the parts they also replaced my shourai lithium battery with another recommend lithium brand (sorry can't remember which one) because apparently the shourai battery has caused unspecified problems for them in the past on other customers bikes. hopefully The End !
Sorry to bother you but did the stealer ever tell you what the actual issue was with your bike? As I'm having a similar issue with my bike.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Baikyo,

I know how frustrating electrical issue can be. Without sounding like a "know it all" or being abrasive let me say this: I have been an Automotive Technician for 30 years. Worked as a technican in a dealership, Technical Training Instructor for factory and dealership personnel for major automotive manufacturers and a Field rep for 28 dealers repairing the vehicles the technicans couldnt repair. Now I am a test specialist at a major manufacturer for electrical issues. I have extensive knowledge of vehicle electrical, starting, charging systems. Several question have been asked about your specific issues.

There are several ways you can test these systems or the dealer can. But, it seems the dealer doesnt have the patience and qualifications to solve this issue. (assumption).

A battery drain or draw is caused by excessive current draw in the electrical system.(amperage draw). With the immobilizer system, ECU memory, ABS module and other computers there will always be a current draw. This is why you must use a battery tender on the bike. A normal current draw with these systems should have no more than 200 to 250 milliamps when measured with an ammeter. This measurment must be made after about twenty mins. after the bike is shut down for every module to go to sleep. This is why the battery is not installed into the bike until delivery to the customer not only because of the hazards of shipping the battery, but Ducati doesnt want to discharge the battery during transport.
This test is called a long term current draw test. If the dealer does not measure this for at least an hour or longer, they will not be able to verify if the electrical system has a draw. And I doubt they have done this.

If there is an excessive curent draw than it is as simple as disconnecting one component at a time until the draw goes away. Arbitrarily replacing modules is not going to fix the problem. I highly doubt that the ECU is casuing the problem.

If the current draw is normal, that I would perform a starter current draw test while cranking. Excessive current draw means faulty starter which would cause slow cranking, or no starts. This is also a simple test that the dealer can do. Another test could be done on all the charging starting curcuits using Voltage drops with a volt meter.

If the problem exist when it is at the dealer, then thats the best case scenerio. They can do these test very easily and repair it because the problem is there.

Mention these test to the technician at the dealer, if they dont understand, than it's time to visit a shop that does.
Test to be performed:
Starter current draw test
Long term current draw test
Voltage drops on all charging/starting circuit cables/wires
Charging system voltage test/output. Should be about 13.8 volts to 15 volts when running.

Again, not trying to toot my own horn, but I have dealt with dealership personnel and the lack of attention to a customer issue first hand. Usually, after the customer has been in several times for the same issue and the technician cannot repair the problem.
Dont get me wrong, some dealership service personnel are top rate. You have choices hopefully.

If you cant solve your issue, find a dealer that knows what these test are and know how to perform them. If after testing then ask to see what the measurments are.

Hope this helps.

P.S. You can perform these test if you have a simple DVOM. (Digital Volt Ohm Meter)
I agree 100% a dealer is only useful for warranty as my uncle once said ( head machanic) major car firm the expert is useally only called in for major or unsolverable issues, otherwise its aprentises in major dealers, finding a good reliable mech or tech is the first task. As im having huge issues at this piont with batteries draining and keyfob bateries being replaced after a couple of starts.
And it provi g to be an expensive fix no matter the option " headache"
I do have one question that thx to your comment made me think.
If i put a kill switch between the battery positive hidden of course like the old days to stop thieves
Would that be a quick fix to stop draining bike batteries till i can save up to get it sorted like the old days taking positive off of battery on old cars etc?.
 
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
Top