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Ducati Diavel Oil Thread


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#1 Rhett

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Posted 11 May 2011 - 08:33 AM

Rather then have ten of these pop up over time, I'm going to start a few threads and pin them in this section

What oil do you use and why.

I prefer to use the green stuff myself, I have been using it for a few years and have had great results from it.

p.s. the green stuff us Motul 300v

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#2 General Lee

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Posted 11 May 2011 - 02:41 PM

I just tried Motul 4T Racing Full Synthetic recently in my last 1098 oil change and it seems to be running just as well as Repsol 4T Racing or Mobil 1 4T Racing.

The parts fiche for the Diavel says it takes oil filter part # 444.4.003.5A. My 1098 takes 444.4.003.4A. Is there any major difference between the two? It looks like pretty much all of the bikes take a K&N KN-153. I'd be willing to bet the Diavel takes the same.

#3 RainsFather

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Posted 12 May 2011 - 12:18 AM

I used Repsol 4T and Castrol (motocycle specific) full syn in my SpeedFour and had very little wear when changing. In my Burgman I use Castrol syn-blend( not motorcycle specific, cvt instead of wet clutch), I'm cheap when it comes to the scooter. I send my oil to be tested when changing to see how the engine is wearing. I have been doing this for about 10 years now in all my vehicles. My family used to own a shop that we did maintenance on large diesel engines. Part of our contracts with owners of the engines was that we had to have the oil tested every oil change. Since we were paying monthly for our tests instead of per test I decided to send all of my friends and relatives oil from their cars/trucks/bikes/toys in every time they changed theirs as well. I did this the whole time I worked at the shop which was about 5 years. From what I have seen through the testing is MOST full synthetics do about the best with similar results, synthetic blends are almost as good and dino/mineral/non-synthetic while some still do very well on average aren't as good as blends. The ones on top were; Diesel - #1Rotella #2Mystic, Gas/Petrol - #1Amsoil #2Castrol #3Mobil 1, Bikes/ATV/Go-Karts/JetSkis - #1Repsol #2Castrol #3Amsoil(though not in ATVs :hooray ). Bottom of the list you ask? Royal Purple and Pennsoil(non-sythectic), you might as well just use water instead of oil with Royal Purple and Penns non-syn just breaks down very quickly. Now, there was a wide range of vehicles so it's not super scientific but I will never run Royal Purple in anything I own seeing what it was doing to the engines it was in. When I get my Diavel in I will continue using Repsol or Castrol since both have done me well and cycle gear seems to have had one or the other on sale every time I changed the oil in the SpeedFour.

Also, if you want to really learn about oil click here. More info than you will ever need.

#4 Malcvtr

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Posted 12 May 2011 - 02:13 PM

To be honest, I don't know what people mean when they say they get good results from a particular oil. Do you guys do an engine stripdown every now and then just to see how the internals are wearing? I'm not sure other tests tell you much. If that's correct, how the heck do you know you're getting good results? To be honest, I think all oils which pass the manufacturer's basic minimum requirements will be fine. I've been riding nearly 40 years (yep, old fart :old ) and no oil has ever "let me down", so I guess I got good results from everything. Have I just been very lucky? :smile

#5 RainsFather

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Posted 12 May 2011 - 02:35 PM

I agree. And that's why I said MOST full syn oils will have similar wear. I actually do have oil tested that comes out when I do an oil change. Which is why I have no problem running castorl syn-blend in my scooter and run motorcraft syn-blend in my wife's suv, they are less expensive and as far as I can tell from chemical analysis are doing their jobs. Never buy an oil because of marketing, buy something that has worked for you that comes from a reputable company. Full syn is the way to go once your engine is broke in and if you do frequent oil changes use a syn-blend. What is real interesting is everybody always talks about oil but the actual important part is getting a quality filter. With normal riding/driving your oil will last 3-4x as long as the filter. My opinion on that is and has always been Wix or GTFO.

#6 Malcvtr

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Posted 12 May 2011 - 02:41 PM

View PostRainsFather, on 12 May 2011 - 02:35 PM, said:

What is real interesting is everybody always talks about oil but the actual important part is getting a quality filter. With normal riding/driving your oil will last 3-4x as long as the filter.


Yep. That's fair enough. I have heard the occasional horror story about pattern filters breaking up :old

#7 General Lee

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Posted 12 May 2011 - 02:48 PM

What's the general rule of thumb for changing oil? I've been doing oil changes every 3,000 miles or so since buying my Speed Triple because I once had it's transmission almost completely lock up when I tried to follow the 6,000 oil change suggestion in the manual. I literally could NOT shift into 1st until I changed the oil, and even before that point the shifting was getting crappier and crappier (was running 4T Full Syn Mobil 1). Also of note, there are chemical differences between car fully synthetic and 4T motorcycle full synthetic, but I'm not sure how much of a difference a few extra ppm molybdenum and other elements make.

#8 RainsFather

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Posted 12 May 2011 - 03:10 PM

That really depends on the bike. Since the engine, trans, and clutch all share the same oil its hard for me to go over 3000. Anything over 3000 in a triumph is just asking for trans problems, my SpeedFour was the same way as your Trip. I only change the oil in my Burgman once a year because it doesn't see very many miles. I can going longer on something like a Harley since they don't rev near as high as a sport bike, then again most harleys change their own oil just sitting still.

#9 HD-Duc

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Posted 12 May 2011 - 03:44 PM

View PostGeneral Lee, on 12 May 2011 - 02:48 PM, said:

What's the general rule of thumb for changing oil? I've been doing oil changes every 3,000 miles



for the the Diavel should be a change all 12'000km ...

#10 Cajun Power

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Posted 12 May 2011 - 05:49 PM

in normally aspirated engines with hard to get to spark plugs, all you can do is check the drain plug (if magnetic) and check for shavings. Color and smell can indicate the wear level. Should no be burt or smell like gas. Also should not have water in it. if you can get to the spark plug you can remove the plugs and look i the cylinder with a good flashlight/scope. cylinder wear can be seen if significant. There are some specialized tools that can be used to analyse the oil if you have access to them. I would be willing to be none of us do. It vaporizes the oil and tests for particles and can tell ny the engine part alloys tell you which parts are wearing. You would only know about these things if you are a nerd like me. LOL


Use oil that is at or better than mfgr spec. Dont switch between dino juice and synthetic back and forth. Use good filters, change on schedule, use a magnetic plug. I have even seen engines and tranny's with magnets epoxied in the drain pan. Oh, and do NOT use oil treatments over and over. I have broken down and engine that had an STP oil treatment every oil change and it looked like someone poured 2 gallons of melted wax in the engine after it was only a year old (5 oil changes).




Does the diavel have a magnetic drain plug?

#11 General Lee

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Posted 12 May 2011 - 08:43 PM

View PostCajun Power, on 12 May 2011 - 05:49 PM, said:

Does the diavel have a magnetic drain plug?


My 1098 does, so I imagine it uses the same.

#12 slasha

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Posted 19 May 2011 - 03:54 AM

View PostRainsFather, on 12 May 2011 - 12:18 AM, said:

I used Repsol 4T and Castrol (motocycle specific) full syn in my SpeedFour and had very little wear when changing. In my Burgman I use Castrol syn-blend( not motorcycle specific, cvt instead of wet clutch), I'm cheap when it comes to the scooter. I send my oil to be tested when changing to see how the engine is wearing. I have been doing this for about 10 years now in all my vehicles. My family used to own a shop that we did maintenance on large diesel engines. Part of our contracts with owners of the engines was that we had to have the oil tested every oil change. Since we were paying monthly for our tests instead of per test I decided to send all of my friends and relatives oil from their cars/trucks/bikes/toys in every time they changed theirs as well. I did this the whole time I worked at the shop which was about 5 years. From what I have seen through the testing is MOST full synthetics do about the best with similar results, synthetic blends are almost as good and dino/mineral/non-synthetic while some still do very well on average aren't as good as blends. The ones on top were; Diesel - #1Rotella #2Mystic, Gas/Petrol - #1Amsoil #2Castrol #3Mobil 1, Bikes/ATV/Go-Karts/JetSkis - #1Repsol #2Castrol #3Amsoil(though not in ATVs :mrgreen ). Bottom of the list you ask? Royal Purple and Pennsoil(non-sythectic), you might as well just use water instead of oil with Royal Purple and Penns non-syn just breaks down very quickly. Now, there was a wide range of vehicles so it's not super scientific but I will never run Royal Purple in anything I own seeing what it was doing to the engines it was in. When I get my Diavel in I will continue using Repsol or Castrol since both have done me well and cycle gear seems to have had one or the other on sale every time I changed the oil in the SpeedFour.

Also, if you want to really learn about oil click here. More info than you will ever need.

thats great info mate thanks....

#13 Thewolf

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Posted 19 May 2011 - 04:03 AM

Very interesting

Also interesting that I noticed exactly the same gearbox issues with my 1050 Speedie so I switched to 5000km servicing instead of 10000km (3000 miles instead of 6000 like you). A mate was complaining about the same with his Sprint ST, suggested same and he never looked back either

Also, for peace of mind I always swapped the filter at the same time as the oil

I think I'll be doing oil every 6000km in the Diavel instead of the scheduled 12000km

#14 kiwibob

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Posted 19 May 2011 - 04:50 AM

I'm not sure about what brand of oil is best but I completely agree with Rainsfather about the oil analysis.
I sell heavy machinery and it's a requirement of warranty that you get all oil compartments tested, usually every 500hrs use. The benefit comes from establishing a wear trend over time, the print-out you get is very detailed, showing the full make-up of your oil, how much it has degraded & contamination levels in PPM of iron, alloy, water etc etc so that you can notice changes between servicing that indicate wear etc & it gives you a chance to stop a problem before it turns into a major failure.
Here in Australia the test kit only costs about $35 & you can get it from most earthmoving sales companies like CAT & Cummins etc, you just need to complete a few questions about the oil type & how long it's been in the engine & post it off to the company.
Don't bother doing the first oil change for obvious reasons.

#15 General Lee

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Posted 22 May 2011 - 08:53 PM

Just did my first service oil change and made a short youtube video showing the tools needed and talking through the steps for those who have never worked on a Ducati before. I'll post up the video shortly when it's done processing.

#16 General Lee

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Posted 22 May 2011 - 09:10 PM



#17 HD-Duc

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 02:46 AM

View PostGeneral Lee, on 22 May 2011 - 09:10 PM, said:


super general, thx

i will try it myself the next time ... :mrgreen

Edited by HD-Duc, 23 May 2011 - 02:47 AM.


#18 enjoymentman

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 04:49 AM

View PostGeneral Lee, on 22 May 2011 - 09:10 PM, said:




Thanks General, it will come in very useful for me...How did you reset the service indicator?

#19 General Lee

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 09:27 AM

View Postenjoymentman, on 23 May 2011 - 04:49 AM, said:

Thanks General, it will come in very useful for me...How did you reset the service indicator?


Still have to go to the dealership to have them reset it in the computer using the factory tool. There are of course are no options in the menu for clearing service warnings. Dealer says they charge $30 for clearing the warning... :)

I need to take it in anyway to have them take care of my sticking rear brake lever issue.

#20 Malcvtr

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 09:51 AM

You're a nice guy. Thanks for posting this useful info. :)

By the way, is that a scratch on the sump cover :mrgreen





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